The Natural Wine Debate

Funky or fabulous?

My first experience with natural wine was at a restaurant in the heart of Florence 5 years ago. The sommelier pitched a bio-organic orange wine, focusing on all its positive properties-organic grapes, no yeast, no sugar, no sulfites, no nothing.

I wondered how this wine would taste in light of what it didn’t have.

I took a whiff yielded a vinegary/barnyardy bouquet. The taste was acidic and harsh. I sent the wine back and requested the sommelier bring a sulfite-filled, non-organically grown Brunello to the table STAT.

It’s 5 years later. A friend invites me to Macchialina, a well-known South Beach Italian restaurant, for a wine dinner hosted by Danilo Marcucci.  Danielo is known as the “Yoda” of natural wines. At his vineyard in Umbria, he grows all the varietals and oversees the production dedicated to wine making in its purest form. I was excited to meet and speak with someone so obviously passionate about this type of wine making.

Danilo did not disappoint. Charming, knowledgeable and intense, he showed us photos of the grapes and the ancient techniques used to extract their juices. He explained that the white wines were often orange because the skins are left on the grapes for a bit of time. He spoke about the integral role the terroir or soil plays in the growth and ultimately the taste of the wine. Without the usual interventions used in modern winemaking, natural wines are essentially a reflection of their environmental influences-sun, rain, and soil. Danilo’s enthusiasm was infectious. I couldn’t wait to try his wines.

Our waiter advised us to pick a couple of varietals to pair with food.

We picked a white and a full bodied red “Rosso” to go with the burrata and prosciutto appetizer and cacio y pepe pasta with truffles. As he poured the white wine into the glass, I was struck by the orange color. I swirled the wine and put it up to my nose. There it was again – a pungent, acidic aroma. I took a sip and the sharpness and sourness of the wine overwhelmed my palate. I asked for a taste of the other white wine varietal-this one was yellow in color and a bit cloudy. Unfortunately, I had the same reaction-not my style at all.

Disheartened but still intrigued, I wanted to try the “Rosso”. At that moment, the cacio y pepe pasta, arrived flooding our table with the aroma of pecorino cheese, black pepper and truffle. For the third time I swirled the glass and took a deep whiff of the red wine. I could smell the soil, I could smell cedar, with a subtle hint of cherry on the nose. I took a sip and, although not as smooth as the wines I fancy, it did have a rustic, earthy taste which paired quite nicely with the very flavorful pasta.

The Bottom Line:

I want to love natural wine. The absence of yeast, sugar, added sulfites, and pesticides make for a very clean, pure experience. It feels healthy to drink. There’s no post drinking hangover or headache because of the lack of sulfites. The red wine paired well with the rustic, flavorful foods we ate.

And organic farming is definitely healthier for the planet.

And yet……… if I am going to have a glass of wine, I sadly admit this is NOT what I would reach for.

But that’s me!

Will you give natural wines a try and let us know what you think?

Let the debate go on!