In Italy, making someone part of your family is the heart of hospitality. Via Emilia 9 brings this family warmth to an otherwise undistinguished street in Miami Beach. It’s got a quiet presence. The outdoor tables sit on the sidewalk, a little tipsy from the uneven pavement. Valentina, an owner, greets guests with her signature “buona sera”, remembers faces, and waits tables with smile and grace. The food is in the tradition of Emilia Romagna – the literal home of Parmasan cheese, as well as homemade pasta and tortellini.
This is the place to go when you want a neighborhood experience. No fuss. No pretention. Just a homey experience outside of the home.
What we had
Carciofi e Parmigiano (arugula with fresh slices of parmigiana, artichoke leaves and a fried artichoke heart on top)
Spaghetti alle vongole. (home made pasta with clams flown in from Italy)
1 glass of Pra di Bosso Lambrusco Reggiano Amabile
1 glass of Vino Rosso di Montepulciano DOCG
1 glass of Chianti Riserva DOCG Grati
What it Costs: $119, with tip. $59.50/person
The experience
This place makes me realize, once again, that restaurants are not just about the food. Because, if I am an honest (and I’m trying to be so honest in this blog), the food here can be uneven.
The argula, parmigiana and artichoke salad is one of the reasons I love going to Via Emilia. It’s one of my favorite salads on the planet. At it’s best, it’s a large plate with arugula topped with sliced artichoke artichoke hearts and a whole hot grilled artichoke hearts then sprinkled with sliced authentic parmigiana and balsemic. Tonight it disappoints. Too little argulua, drowning in parmigiana, and soggy from too much balsamic vinegar. It still tastes good but it is not its usual wonderful multi-textured self.
Our wait person tells us that the spaghetti alle vongole comes with clams imported from Italy that are different from the clams typically found on this dish. They are longer, she says. I found they are smaller – mere specks, like a crumb, that I dig out with my fingers. The spaghetti is more like strozzapreti, a thicker, doughy pasta. It’s delicious with the butter/wine sauce.
I easily overlook the less-than-great-tonight food at Via Emilia because I love being part of the Via Emilia family. And when the food is on, it’s as good as one could get in the Emilio region of Italy, the home of the chef.
But I guess that is what a family experience is all about: great some days, not so great other days, but always there when you need them.
If you go to Via Emilia, let me know what you think please!
Anne